More FAQ about Hay

Q12) Are rabbits more at risk from myxi from farm hay than processed hay?
A12) Wild rabbits don’t tend to have mites. It is possible that fleas or ticks could be present in the hay, and go on to bite and spread disease, but this is a pretty insignificant risk.

Q13) Is there any proof that readi grass can lead to bladder issues?

A13) It’s higher in calcium than timothy, and lower in water than grass, so in susceptible rabbits those foods would be preferable, but it is not a significantly greater risk in itself.

Hay!

Q11) Can readigrass be fed instead of hay as the sole source of fibre? (Not advisable perhaps, but for owners of fussy buns or those who are overly concerned about mites in hay)
A11) Timothy hay best, but if they won’t eat any of these various timothies and other specialist hays, then it is better than nothing. The Oxbow etc has been packaged and stored and shipped and we’d be surprised if any invertebrates were alive in it.

Q8) Are there any plans to create a long term soultion such as a vaccination against EC in the near future?

A8) Not by anyone we know of.

Hay etc

Q9) The risk of myxi from hay is small, but does readigrass have the same risk factor?

A9) Readigrass has a different production process and should be free of live mites. We are not suggesting everyone stop feeding hay as the basis of the rabbits diet, but for those people who are worried about this, readigrass is a suitable alternative, for a healthy rabbit with no known under lying problems. .

Q10) Is Readigrass fattening?

A10) Not particularly. Pretty much equivalent to grass and hay

FAQ cont’d

Q7) I bought some zoflora as it says safe to use in pet areas, thing is would it be
safe to use near buns? I know it wouldn’t kill EC spores though.

A7) This is from the safety data sheet, which makes me think, no, it’s not a good
idea round pets:

R11
Highly flammable
R21/22
Harmful in contact with skin and if swallowed
R23/24/25
Toxic by inhalation, in contact with skin and if swallowed
R34
Cause burns
R36
Irritating to eyes
R38
Irritating to skin
R39/23/24/25
Toxic: danger of very serious irreversible effects through inhalation, in
contact with skin and if swallowed
R43
May cause sensitisation by skin contact
R50
Very toxic to aquatic organisms.
R51/53
Toxic to aquatic organisms, may cause long term effects in the aquatic
environment.
R52/53
Harmful to aquatic organisms, may cause long term effects in the aquatic
environment.
R65
Harmful: may cause lung damage if swallowed.
H225
Highly flammable liquid and vapour
H301
Toxic if swallowed
H302
Harmful if swallowed
H311
Toxic in contact with skin
H312
Harmful in contact with skin
H314
Causes severe skin burns and eye damage
H331
Toxic if inhaled
H370
Causes damage to organs
H400
Very toxic to aquatic life

FAQ cont’d

The new vaccine is arriving in vet practices this week. The UK tests have been
completed and although we do not have the results as yet we will update everyone
when we do.
Q5)
I’m interested to know more about the new combined vaccine…and in particular
there’s something in the data information which suggests that if a bunny has had
the other myxi vaccine in the past, the VHD element of the new vaccine might not
work. I‘d be interested to now why this is. What does this mean in practice?
Will the new vaccine therefore only be used for first time bunnies, or will it
be used in conjunction with one of the former VHD vaccinations? What advice have
vets been given about this?
A5)
The new combined vaccine has been tested in rabbits given the continental
Myxi vaccine, and there were borderline low protective titres to VHD. This is a
different vaccine to what is used in the UK against Myxi so there is now work
underway to see if the UK Myxi vaccine interferes to the same degree, though
they expect it not to be a problem. We expect results shortly.

EC
Q6)
Are Trigene and Vanodine safe for use with rabbits and would they kill
EC?

A6) Vanodine
is an iodine based product, which claims to kill other spore based
bacteria/fungi etc, and so I would imagine it to be effective after cleaning as
per our cleaning protocol:
Thoroughly
clean the area to remove any scale or residue.
Use
Ark-Klens , which is a benzalkonium chloride disinfectant and as such it should
be effective against EC and Myxi, to routinely disinfect the housing.
Periodically
use Virkon (as an inorganic peroxygen compound) to kill any other
viruses.Note: Other benzalkonium chloride disinfectants and inorganic
peroxygen compounds may be available, in addition to those named
above.
Trigene
is safe at the dilutions recommended, and should be as effective as above
(product is claimed effective against spores, bacteria, fungi, mycobacteria and
viruses) assuming the above cleaning procedure is followed
beforehand).

FAQ con’td Myxi.

Q2) What is the risk in reality of a rabbit contracting Myxomatosis from contact
with a recently Nobivac Myxo vaccinated rabbit?
A2) Its not Myxomatosis in the old Nobivac Myxo vaccine, so they can’t develop myxo
from it, so there is no risk at all.

Q3) If a myxi vaccinated bunny subsequently catches myxi 6 months later and
(thankfully) fully recovers from it, does this bunny then have some kind of
immunity to catching it again or at the very least a stronger chance of fighting
it again?
A3) No, not really, immunity is short lived.

Q4) I have an indoor rabbit n the vet said injections once a year is enough. If he was
outdoor he recommends twice. If I had 2 indoor bunnies is once a year
vaccination enough too or should they be vaccinated twice ?

A4) The RWAF recommends vaccinating all rabbits twice yearly or myxi and once for VHD.This advice will change when the new combined vaccine becomes available very soon, until then,
keep your vaccines up to date.

Hay!

Hay! Rabbits benefit from a variety of hay or grass in their diet. Different types, and cut from different places and at different times of year all offer different nutrients and textures. Hay (or grass) should be the cornerstone of their diet and not just a bedding! Hanging baskets, toilet roll inners and plant pots stuffed with hay all make foraging fun. If your bunnies have a favourite please share.

Binky Day 2012

Last year we had a spur of the moment Binky Day and lots of us shared our binky photos – this year, we want to do another one, but plan it better and hopefully be able to make a bigger thing of it so that we can all share binky joy on our walls and make rabbit binkying mainstream! What better way to show that a hutch is not enough? So, this year Binky Day will be Friday 1st June. We’ll make a poster and do a press release, so we need lots of photos of binkies before hand. Please feel free to share them on our wall, but also please e-mail any good binky photos to rae@rabbitwelfare.co.uk so that we can use them.

Please remember that rabbits that have been kept in a hutch for long periods of time may need to have their exercise area increased gradually so that they can build their fitness and get used to exercising. Many hutches are not tall enough to allow a rabbit to rear up properly, and this can cause them to have spinal problems. Please make sure your rabbits can stand on their back legs without their ears touhing the roof in the area that you confine them in, ie their hutch, indoor cage, or hutch and attached run. As a general rule, this should be no less than 60cms for an average sized rabbit.